Telling People what they WANT : 'Make an Axe'

I came across your webpage and I was wondering if I could arrange for a private session so that I can build an axe. ... I plan on building the handle ahead of time, so I was looking to just build the blade/head with your assistance. I likely will bring someone with me as I understand it can be a two person job.

Recent e-mail to the Wareham Forge 
The following adapted from / suggested by my reply :


No, not realistically
I have a suite of programs I offer. (A total of 12 different programs)
The content is based on what I consider reasonable objectives for students.
Also what I am equipped to undertake.
Filtered by what skills and knowledge I am interested (and able) to teach.
I do not offer a one day axe making program.


So - unpacking the questions embedded above?

Forged Replicas by the Wareham Forge : Norse trimming axe (UL) / Hudson Bay trade axe (modified commercial) (UR) / Norse tool axe (C) / Artifact French trade axe (LL)

I've made a few axes over the decades.
There are a number of commentaries related to axe making and specifically Viking Age axes available here as past blog postings :





Norse Woodworking Axes
VA Ship Tools - Adze & Broadaxe
Jim Austin - Axe Making Tutorial
French Trade Axe from Bloom Iron
Ship Tools - Adze / Broadaxe




Loosely, there are two broad ways an axe can be made:

Viking Age Dejbejerg Axe replica

A solid block of iron can be punched on one end to create the eye.
The other end is then flattened out to a long taper.
There may be a small piece of hard steel forge welded to this taper for the edge. This may be done by cutting a slot into the end and inserting, or lap welding the piece to one side

Norse fine tool axe

A long narrow strip of iron can be folded over, then one end is forged welded together, leaving a gap at the fold to create the eye.
There most typically is a piece of steel inserted to the far end before the weld to create the cutting edge. (In the image above, you can see the colour shift.)

You can see how both these different construction methods result in quite distinctive shapes to both the peen end (heavy block when punched) the transition from sides of the eye to body (2 x thick typically for folded).
In most cases the shape of the punched eye is also different, with punched tending to round or oval, with folded to box or tear drop.

French Trade Axe - in process

Of course, a more complex method is to first profile a rectangular strip before it is folded over and welded. (Most Viking Age axes actually appear to use variations of this method.)

Over history, the method used at a particular time and place, with the resulting 'ideal' shape of the finished axe, is so specific that the shape of axes can often be used as a rough dating method.

Norse tool axes - for L'Anse aux Meadows NHSC

Note that my general prices for a properly forged axe head start at about $300.
This for a block of mild steel, profiled, folded, then forge welded with a carbon steel insert for the cutting edge, drawn to shape, ground and polished to sharp, heat treated correctly.
I would normally spread this heavy work over at least two working days, more realistically like three. Remember that I've made more than one of these. I have made the investment in a number of specialized tools, especially heavy powered tools (air hammer), but I'm also getting to be an 'old guy'.)


There is an individual who does offer what is described as 'one day axe making'. (The content of the e-mail does indicate that this is the point of comparison. 1)

So - What do * I * think is possible?
For a totally untrained individual, within a standard 9 to 5 workshop session?


I do not attempt to instruct forge welding as an (absolute) beginner's technique.
- You need to be able to accurately judge temperature through colour.
- You need to be able to quickly and accurately place hammer strokes.
- You have to accurately apply the correct amount of force through each hammer stroke.
I consider all of these elements only possible through practice. No practice = no control = bad results.
So folded construction is out, as is the addition of any carbon steel insert edges.

It might prove possible to start with a block, pre-drilled with a pilot hole (how many drill presses do you imagine I have?). Students would drift that hole open for the eye (would require one set of drifts per student of course). Then the other end of the block tapered and flattened to some kind of edge.
I will say however that this is heavy forging work. In untrained hands, the chance for incorrect hammer use vastly increases (Especially as most certainly attempting this work in a single day suggests rushing, into excessive physical fatigue.)
Honestly, I would not rate the probability of good results, or even finishing the work, very high.

What if you started with the eye pre-punched, the block ready to flatten to an edge?

Hammer into Axe - Black Bear Forge (see the video)

It could prove possible for someone with no forge experience to take a commercial ball peen hammer (already is half decent steel, has a prepared eye) and re-forge it down into a simple 'pipe hawk' shape. You could find lots of samples of this standard method on the internet.
This would likely be achievable for an untrained hand in a workshop day.




Another point from the e-mail above?
The handle is fitted to the head - not the other way around. You could do some previous work by splitting out the rough length, shaping it to oval with axe / draw knife. But before you know the size and shape of the actual eye - you can't really get much beyond a very approximate shape - or it simply will not fit correctly.
If you were making standardized axe head blanks (like using pre-made, standardized dies on an air hammer - see above) you could have rough blanks prepared in advance. Of course this is all woodworking - not blacksmithing, anyway.


As you can see on the web site, a 'private session' one day (9 to 5 - lunch) runs $300+.  http://www.warehamforge.ca/TRAINING/train.html
For the hammer head to hawk project, expect an additional $30+ each for the starting hammer blank (another $25+ each for the handle blanks).
(Check current prices at Princess Auto)





1) I quite specifically am NOT identifying this individual - for a number of reasons:
- Looking at the related published materials, it is hard to actually determine what this 'one day axe' actually entails.
I think what this really is : one day bash an edge thin. Given the space and activities pictured, I believe he is providing students with a pre made blank (rough profile with eye already made) and students thin out the block on the edge side. This is a bit more complex than taking a bar and grinding an angle on it - but not much. 
- The class sizes indicated are much, much larger than my own (considerable) personal teaching experience suggests are either effective or able to control. 
(In my own programs six is the maximum, and many specialized skills are limited to four, sometimes only two, students. Forge welding is limited to two students.)
- Clearly, anyone offering a specific 'object' workshop, has to have invested considerable time, expense and effort into specialized tools - and enough of these tools to equip the intended class size.  (An excellent example is this video of Gransfors commercial axe forging)
- I personally consider there is another element at play here 'Give them what they WANT - not what is TRUE'.