"Can you sharpen.."

Yes

But I won't

I am looking to get an edge put on a hewing spearhead I had received as a gift. I just personally do not feel comfortable enough handling it myself as I do not believe I have the proper skill set.

Short answer is that I am extremely reluctant to take on a job like this one.

There are a couple of components to consider here.

1) An extremely important consideration :
The nature of the original work.
You said you had gotten the spear head as a gift. This likely means you don't have the best information on the original maker. This important related to the undertaking of sharpening (to some extent) but most importantly to the results of this work.
You can physically sharpen almost anything. Consider a paper cut!

Sharpening as a process involves some care and precision, and some combination of time and/or tools. Physically, you need to maintain a precise angle with the tools chosen, over the length of the metal, mirror imaged (usually) on the two sides. This is repeated with finer and finer abrasive surfaces. An edge made sharp using a bench grinder will certainly cut effectively. But the result is a ragged edge, which catches on the a material being cut and quickly degrades. By continued polishing of the edge with finer abrasives, the ragged will become smooth, so leaves less and less to catch and tear.

The hardness of the base material determines :
- how thin a physical edge which can be created
* most importantly *
- how durable that sharpened edge will be.

In use, that fine edge starts to wear away. The harder the material, the longer this takes.
The problem with an object from an unknown maker is two fold :

a) What *was* the original material used?

An extreme example : A high tin bronze alloy can be mixed to be harder than low carbon iron - you can cut wrought iron with certain bronze tools. (The main difference is that this high tin bronze is also a brittle as glass, low carbon iron is flexible and will bend rather than break - consider a sword in use?)
In iron alloys, the primary additional element is carbon. It does not take very much carbon to radically change the hardness of the metal. Significant is that hardness almost always increases brittleness. Antique wrought iron typically has next to no carbon at all (which is why antique objects are often so massive looking, more material was needed to give the required strength. Consider old barn hinges as a good example.)
The most common material in our modern world is mild steel. This material has roughly 0.20 % carbon. This is just enough (see below) to possibly be a 'bit hard'. It also remains soft enough to easily machine (or hand forge). Many 'reproduction' weapons are made of this material, simply as a cost factor.
At roughly 0.50% carbon you have a 'spring' steel. This provides a nice balance of potential hardness (so edge durability) against breaking. So again dependent on heat treating (below), this is a simple alloy choice for 'high impact' cutting edges (read : swords).
As you increase up to about 0.75% you get 'high carbon' steels. Good for fine edge but low impact tools - smaller knives intended for fine slicing (skinning knives).

This progression can shift with the addition of small amounts of other elements added to the alloy. The best example is adding nickle - the result being 'stainless' steels. Your home table knives are most likely only 0.20% carbon, but also about 0.50% nickle. With alloy steels, as the combination of additional elements gets more complex, so does the basic quality of the metal itself change. It is possible in our modern world to create iron alloy steels with radical handling properties. How you might work up shapes with those alloys also can become more an more complex. For some of the more elaborate alloys, attempting hand forging is basically not realistic.

Many 'display' weapons are in fact made of lower carbon, stainless series alloys. This allows for ease of manufacture, and ability to create a surface with a bright mirrored surface, which does not rust in normal situations.

Only in China : Described as "hand forged Damascus' - retail price at $250 US

b) What (if any) heat treating process was the material subjected to (this applies to most metals).
Final heat treating is a three step process : Annealing (to release forging stress) / Quenching (to harden the metal to a desired maximum) / Tempering (selectively *removing* hardness as desired) Most people don't understand the difference between Hardening and Tempering.
I'm not going into fine detail here (this can be a very complex topic).
Basically, once a iron / carbon alloy (steel) is heated to a specific temperature, the faster you cool it, the harder it gets (up to a maximum determined by carbon content). Differing cooling liquids result in different degrees of hardness.
(As you might guess, there is a huge about of 'mystical hoo-doo' around all this!)
The harder the existing metal, the more effort is required to physically sharpen it.

How NOT to oil quench a blade!

The tempering process on the other hand is a low temperature mechanism. For ease of description, the tempering effect starts somewhat above 400 F. What that means effectively is great care needs to be employed if any power tools (sanders etc) are used in the sharpening sequence. 

What is the blade for? Draw different tempers depending on use.

So without knowing what heat treating process was used, there is no way to easily tell how hard the produced object even is. This means that it may be possible to sharpen it - but no guaranties at all about how durable that edge will remain in actual use.

As you can see, all this boils down to : "I realistically can have no idea how difficult it will be to sharpen your blade - or how good a job can even be done."