As a review of earlier posts :
Wednesday, June 03, 2015
Wednesday, June 10, 2015
|Portions of the longer bar were cut, then forged to rough cylinders over the edge of the anvil. These would form the body of each lock. This results in a slightly distorted shape - obviously different than simply using commercial pipe.|
|A total of three bodies were made - you can see the variation between each.|
|One of the completed smaller cylinders. Due to the size / relative strength, these were not braised closed.|
|Next the two end plates were made. A triangular piece was cut from the remaining wide strip, two for each lock. (The pieces here are for the 'front' of each lock.)|
1) Grind to shape individually to fit each lock body
2) Hot punch the upper shackle hole (front plates only)
3) Drill small holes at the corners of the shackle (front) and key (rear) slots
4) Using different straight chisels, cut out the required slots
5) Finish by filing the slot edges smooth
Another 'modern cheat' here was using a modern drill press for the corner holes - rather than hot punching these.
A large segment of the work is not documented via photographs:
• A flat plate was prepared with two holes at one end. This plate was then secured inside the lock body. Originally these would have been bronze braised into place, I used a modern (invisible) cheat and MIG welded to secure.
• The keys were forged, fitted separately to each lock individually. One end was split, then forged out to make an L shaped fork of two tines, each formed to a circular profile that would then fit into the paired holes inside the lock body.(And tested before the next step!) The other end of each was hot punched and drifted to make a carry loop.
• 3/16 square rod was twisted, then cut to make the short bars that secured the two end plates to the lock bodies. There were four such rods required on each lock. These were then used like long shafted rivets.
• Individual shackles were made from 3/16 x 1 inch flat stock, forged to roughly 5/16 inch round on one end (to fit into the small top cylinder and punched hole in the end plate). Each shackle was then formed to a U shape - again to fit the individual lock.
• Pieces of flat spring were prepared, two pieces for each lock shackle. Another modern cheat - I used some band saw blade material for these (suitable width and 'spring'). The pieces of spring were braised in place to one end of each shackle.
• The final step was determining the exact fit of the shackle slot - relative to the individual springs. There was a fussy balance between having the slot wide enough to make the key properly depress the shackle springs - and not having it too loose so the lock would not remain secure.
The overall project was then completed by forging the pair of strap hinges for each box. There was also a hasp set made for each box, using the same 'loop and tab' method used on various known Norse sea chests.
|One finished lock, showing the shackle removed and the individually fitted key. Also the pieces of the hasp set (wrought head square nails were included for mounting).|
|The completed pair of locks and hasps, showing one securing a hasp set.|